When I first saw
the Sagrada Familia I stopped in my tracks; but our children were
young. It was not the season for seeing cathedrals. I knew the day
would come for savouring this extraordinary building. Back home in
Surrey, an idea began to form. Bike to Barcelona – from the
Cathedral of the Holy Spirit in Guildford to the Basilica of the Holy Family. A
pilgrimage to celebrate how the Holy Spirit leads to Holy Family.
I shared this
with a good friend, Donald Hirsch, who said the thousand miles plus
was too much to do in one go. He suggested three rides over three
years – and he would come with me. Perfect.
In 2024 we
cycled from the Cathedral of the Holy Spirit in Guildford to
Poitiers, the account of our journey is here.
https://sternfieldthoughts.blogspot.com/2024/07/a-pilgrimage-from-cathedral-of-holy.html
In 2025 we cycled
from Poitiers to Toulouse, the account of our journey is here.
https://sternfieldthoughts.blogspot.com/2025/05/pilgrimage-from-cathedral-of-holy.html
And in 2026, we
cycled from Toulouse to the Cathedral of the Holy Family (Sagrada
Familia) in Barcelona, the end of our journey.
You can see a map of the entire route here, many thanks to Donald for this...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yjfThnCka4mnjsjIk9vf4KrmDOVR2vFO/view?usp=sharing
This is the
account of that final stage.
Day One,
Friday April 10th
Toulouse to
Alzonne (55 miles)
The evening
before we had arrived at Paul Seabright’s home in Toulouse where we
had ended our second leg. We were welcomed by Paul and his partner
Charlotte, and there was plenty of conversation over a very fine
dinner – Paul’s latest book, The Divine Economy,
his next project, about when politicians should retire. And there was
plenty of conversation over breakfast in Paul’s courtyard garden,
but it had to come to an end. We had over fifty miles before us. We
set off at about 8.30
and soon found the path by the Canal du
Midi, which we had used in 2025. After
negotiating the Toulouse cycling rush hour, we were speeding along on
the flat excellent surface in near perfect weather. An easy start.
And it remained easy. By the afternoon we
had left the canal path and were on fairly quiet French roads, or
reasonable farm tracks. In the late afternoon we stopped to rest in a park
in Bram. Here there was an art centre, with an exhibition all about
rugby balls. I was the only visitor, and I learned how the balls are
shaped. First a wooden model is made, then the leather is stretched
over it. That’s the randomness of a long bike ride.
At our campsite
we could see the snow capped Pyrenees in the far distance. We thought
they would be our challenge. They weren’t. It would be something
else. We were able to eat a good meal at the campsite restaurant,
and then, as is usual, Donald beat me at chess.
Day Two,
Saturday April 11th.
Our wedding
anniversary. Thirty nine years. I was in France, Mojdeh in the north
of Turkey, speaking at a Christian women’s seminar. She was the
first to text, and then I managed to call. She was walking on the
beach with another lady. We talked briefly, I then sent her a text.
We had got up at
six and were ready to set off by seven-thirty. We had breakfast in Carcassonne with
its medieval castle perched above the River Aude, and then things were not so easy. There were long hills, and the wind was often in
our faces, . By lunchtime I felt
drained.
We stopped in the quiet town of Lezignan-Corbieres and
settled into a boulangerie for sandwiches and a rest. We were revived
and enjoyed our afternoon ride through the expansive space between
the Massif Central to the north, and the Pyrenees, in the south. Our
campsite was a few kilometres outside Narbonne, so while I put up the
tent, Donald kindly took off again to get our supper. We heated this
up in the site microwave; ate; crouched into our tent, and so to
sleep. I was exhausted.
Day Three,
Sunday April 12th
Up again at six,
and out of the campsite by seven thirty. We then had two hours of
magnificent cycling along another canal path. After about half an
hour, there was a large lagoon on our left signalling that the
Mediterranean wasn’t far away, and beyond the canal on our right,
another one. And in the far distance, the Pyrenees. We didn’t see a
soul, but in one of the lagoons there was a group of birds standing
in the shallows, either egrets or flamingoes. All was at peace.
Our path led to a
port, and then a road heading towards the sea; but I needed
re-fuelling. So we swung into the town of La Palme and found a small
boulangerie that was open. With our bikes parked outside, the camping
gear easily visible, and my Brexit Union Jack helmet,
both the staff and the few customers were curious.
One old lady
stopped by our table and told us she was ninety-one.
I asked her if she had had a good life. She paused. Then said that
her first husband had been no good; the second, ‘Okay’. I found
it interesting that she defined her life by her husbands. It makes
sense. And it made sense of this long journey to the Cathedral of the
Holy Family. What makes a good life? Our family, or extend that, our
close relationships. I talked with Donald about this. He had another
angle. His father, the economist Fred Hirsch,
had loved his family, but if had been asked about what makes a ‘good
life’, he would have started with his
intellectual work. Family though would
still have been in the mix.
After this
breakfast, we were soon by the Mediterranean; but it wasn’t a
smooth blue under a sunny sky. All was grey and windy. The forecast
was rain in the evening, and winds of up to fifty miles, starting in
the night, and continuing the next day. Donald, being a great
planner, already knew about these forecasts and we had decided not to
camp in the rain. He also had ideas
about dealing with tomorrow’s wind when we were meant to cross the
Pyrenees.
When we arrived
in St Cyprien Donald headed off to try and book a room in a hotel. I
was meant to follow, but fell into conversation with an Irish couple
who were having a drink outside a bar. This was an important
encounter. Almost randomly they told me that cycling the coastal
route round the Pyrenees, known as the ‘Corniche’, would be fine.
They sometimes went to Spain and back in a day. I knew that Donald
had ruled this route out for the sensible reasons that being scenic
there would be a lot of traffic, there was no promise of a safe cycle
lane, and there were a lot of hills to climb.
When I got to the
hotel, it was fully booked, but the receptionist allowed us to sit in
the lobby and Donald expertly negotiated with booking.com. We soon
had an apartment and as we arrived, the rain started. I mentioned my
conversation with the Irish couple, but Donald was not overly
impressed. All his research – and he had spent a lot of time on
this – showed that this coastal route would not just be harder
physically, but possibly dangerous. His route was to go about ten
miles inland and climb over one of the first foothills. The problem
was the wind. Coming down a steep hill with fifty mile winds coming
in any direction would not be wise. Donald did not want to abandon
this route; his preference was to ride just five or six miles the
next day, and book into a hotel, wait for the wind to subside, and so
get going on Tuesday. We would have to put in a some extra miles in
Spain, but it should be fine.
Day Four,
Monday April 13th
We woke up to the
news that there was no guarantee that the fifty mile winds were going
to ease off tomorrow. That would mean two days of hanging around this
side of the Pyrenees. The conversation about the coastal route with
the Irish couple came more into focus. I decided to broach the
subject again over our coffee and croissant after our five mile ride
to Argeles. Thankfully as I began, the wind was not particularly
ferocious. So I suggested we try this coastal route and if the
traffic and the wind was horrific we would turn back and wait to do
Donald’s original route. If our experiment worked, then that would
save us having to wait in France and then having to have two days of
seventy mile rides in Spain.
Donald listened
carefully, but needed to check things out on the internet which was
patchy where we were. We found a better cafe and the map was spread
out on the table. Donald’s hesitation was that if we started, then
we would be adding a lot to our ride if we then had to come back for
his route. And now the wind was beginning to pick up a bit. My hunch
was to give it a go, and then came the clincher. There was a train
line all the way along this coastal route. Donald had it confirmed
from both the waiter and the internet that the trains were running.
Here was the safety back up. If the coastal route was a nightmare, we
could catch a train back.
So, much later
than usual, our cycling began. And my appreciation for Donald’s
graciousness increased. He had put a lot of work into planning the
Pyrenees route, and now it had been discarded.
The Irish couple
were correct. The road was safe, indeed there were good cycle paths
all the time. And, not surprisingly given the weather, it wasn’t
very busy. But the howling wind was something. I don’t think I have
ever cycled in such conditions. Sometimes it was so strong that it
almost lifted you up a hill; and then you turned a sharp corner and
it attacked you. The only option was to get off the bike and walk;
and sometimes just to stand still till that particular gust eased.
However we were never in danger. The route worked. And on more than
one occasion Donald told me how he appreciated my pushing for this
coastal route, rather than waiting one or two days in France.
The scenery was
very dramatic. Sheer cliffs, the sea, the winding road down to a
small town in a bay, and then up again. All these towns were very
much ‘out of season’. Hardly anyone was in the street. At one
where we had a brief rest there was a young Swedish couple and their
two small children playing nearby. The husband was a teacher, so he
and Donald has an animated conversation about education. I decided to
talk to the wife who was looking after the toddlers. I explained
about the pilgrimage, and then asked if she was a Christian. She said
she was, and that she had been confirmed. However she admitted her
faith was faint. She had not read the Gospel of John, so I gave her a
copy, and encouraged her to enjoy her faith. I hope this random
encounter helped her.
Entering Spain
was a little depressing. The old checkpoint offices at the top of a
hill had been vandalised and were covered in graffiti. But the views
of the sea on the descent down were truly magnificent. We had only
cycled twenty five miles today, but it had been hard going and we
were ready to rest. So we stopped at the first seaside town, Portbou,
and had a beer in a dingy bar with a fruit machine and an unfriendly
barman. Here Donald presented me with a ‘Certificate of Pedalling
Achievement’ for cycling through France. He is well acquainted with my
thinking on some subjects. There was a line of exclamation marks, all
crossed out. I loathe exclamation marks. The noisy, vulgar, and
intrusive louts of the punctuation family. Donald also knows of my disdain for the French Revolution
and its vacuous slogan of ‘Liberty, Equality, and
Fraternity’. So he complimented me with :
‘Liberality, Equanimity, and Felicity’. This was kind, thoughtful
and humorous.
Again because of
the wind, we blanked camping and again got accommodation through
booking.com. It all happened very easily.
Day Five,
Tuesday April 14th
We planned to
leave around eight thirty, so I was able to have some time for prayer
and reading the Bible. My Old Testament reading for the day was Psalm
104. Not surprisingly I was very struck by the mention of wind in
verses 3 and 4:
He rides on
the wings of the wind
he makes his
messengers winds...
Was God riding on
the wind that sometimes pushed us, sometimes forced us off our bikes?
And what was the message of these winds? These questions were in my
mind for most of the day.
It was a long
hill out of Portbou. We climbed and climbed. But then it was time to leave
this more difficult road and we disappeared down a small country
road. It felt like the time of stress and effort and dealing with the
wind and the hills all suddenly finished. There we were on an empty
lane, on the flat, with a blue sky above us, hardly a breath of wind,
and in the distance, beyond a green wheat field, the snow capped
Pyrenees. The view of the mountains from the Spanish side, the south
side, is more magnificent. They appear clearer, more in focus.
In the afternoon
we started to use a special bike route for the Pyrenees area. It was
called the Pryanexus. It was fine when it was sign-posted; but more
than once the signs petered out and we were left to work things out
from Google or Koomoot. It was a stop and start sort of ride – but
no hills, no wind. We were on the plains.
Our campsite was
a little eerie. It was a vast out of season holiday park. There were
hundreds of static caravans, a huge pool, restaurants, bars, an
entertainment stage – and hardly a soul around. Just one watchman
who let us in, and one other camper.
By now the wind
in Psalm 104 was coming into focus. Wind, of course, is the Holy
Spirit. We know that from Jesus’ conversation with Nicodemus in
John 3, we know it from the Day of Pentecost in Acts 2. God
absolutely rides on the wind of the Holy Spirit, and the Holy Spirit
is His constant messenger. Our journey started at the Cathedral of
the Holy Spirit, it is due to end at the Cathedral (actually
Basilica) of the Holy Family. The Holy Spirit brings about Holy
Family. But why the ferocious speed, the howling, the gusts that
pushed us of our bikes? And why on hills? Why was the wind sometimes
with us, sometimes against us. Unpredictable, even wild.
That’s family.
There are times
of free-wheeling down hills with the wind on your back; but there are
plenty of hills. On this bike ride, most of the time the wind was
helping us up those hills. That is a picture that stays with me. Our
family, like all families, have climbed some hills: but we were
helped. And at times that same wind has stopped me in my tracks.
Thank you.
The drama of the
wind and the hills as we neared the Sagrada Familia made perfect
sense. God is family, God is for family. The good life is nearly
always a life of good relationships, often in an actual family, or
with a close set of friends. And so the Holy Spirit is there to help us as we faithfully climb
the hill of staying together, and sometimes there has to be
frightening strength. And then, as happened today, there are no more
hills, the wind is gentle and the road is kind. That is also family.
Day Six,
Wednesday April 15th
Apart from a
minor drama with Donald’s phone, which was dealt with by a kind
work colleague, the morning’s ride was
easy going. Some of it was along the coast, some on quiet country
lanes or tracks, and a few busy roads. We felt we deserved a proper
cooked meal – we had not had one for perhaps two days – so we
headed for the plaza in a town called
Llagostora in search of a decent looking restaurant. We found ‘The
Casino’ which with its vast interior and exceptionally high ceilings was very atmospheric.
The afternoon
ride to Sills was also easy, and mainly car free. Our campsite was in
the middle of nowhere, and, again was virtually deserted. Reception
was shut, but outside sat a young Swedish lady. She had just started
a biking expedition in the opposite direction to ours. She was
cycling the Euro Velo Route 8 from Barcelona to Montenegro. Well
north of two thousand miles. On her own. We talked quite a bit, but
still no receptionist, so I went and found a spot and put up our
tent. A friendly lady came round later and I went up to give our
passport details and pay. She hadn’t been on time because her
father had just had an operation in the hospital.
Knowing we would be
miles from any shops we had bought some food earlier which we now ate
in a deserted restaurant area which overlooked the campsite. We
talked about the journey of faith, and the lost sons in Jesus’
parable. Both were lost to the father. One for the pleasures of life,
the other for thinking their moral life meant they were owed
something. Which were we?
Day Seven,
Thursday April 16th
It was a cold
night. I took the tent down wearing gloves. On the next pitch was the
young Swedish lady. I asked her what the poetry was behind her trip,
the motivation. She said she wanted to test her mental health, to be
alone with nature. I didn’t take this to mean that she had mental
issues. She was wanting to test her character. On nature I told her
about Psalm 19:1 - The
heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of his
hands’. She
said she wasn’t religious, but she listened. I told her my own
story of being encouraged to seek God with all my heart, and how her
life was precious. When we wheeled our bikes away she wasn’t in her
tent, but I left a Gospel of John on her bike. I hope God speaks to
her.
Today’s
ride was fairly easy, just a few hills, and by mid afternoon we were
at our last campsite. Our sixteenth over the three years. It was
called ‘Barcelona’, and we were just twenty
three
miles from the city. We had a long and leisurely dinner in the site
restaurant, and then played chess. A pleasant change. I won. Over
dinner we reflected that this would probably be the last time we
would do such a long ride (this leg was over 300 miles). But we were
so grateful that we were able to do this in our late sixties.
From
this campsite I had written to the clergy of the Sagrada Familia
explaining the pilgrimage to them, and that we had been sent off from
Guildford Cathedral with prayer from the Acting Dean. It would be
wonderful if we could be met by prayer. I wasn’t expecting a reply,
but one came swiftly. A priest would not be able to meet us tomorrow.
Given this is one of the busiest Christian sites in the world, that
is not so surprising.
The
Final Day, Friday April 17th
We
were on our way by seven thirty. Our ride started on a busy coastal road, but thankfully we were only on it for a couple of
kilometres. Then the magic of Google swerved us away from the
coast and onto tracks which went between allotments. These tracks
then took us round the back of Mataro. The bike paths were good.
Going along one there was a young boy, no more than ten, pedalling
along, and holding on to his back was a younger girl, probably his
sister, on roller skates. A good way to get to school. They will
probably talk about this to their grand-children.
After
Mataro, Premia de Mar, where my son, Bahram, who
lives in Spain, was
due to meet us. There had been a bit of a mix up over the name of the
cafe, so our rendezvous was a little delayed. It was great to see
him. I felt very chuffed that he had taken a day off work to do this.
But there was no time to savour the moment. We needed to push on.
The
ride into Barcelona was perfect. We were on the flat, right by the
sea which was now its proper Mediterranean blue, the sun shining, but
not scorching, with the city skyline getting nearer and nearer. And
then the Sagrada Famila began to stand out from the other buildings.
Over 900 miles of cycling, and now we could see our destination. We
entered Barcelona, first through an industrial area, and then the
dramatic buildings of the 1992 Olympics. After these, we came to the
Diagonal, a wide tree lined avenue that would lead us to the
Basilica.
Neither
Donald nor Bahram are signed up Christians. They have their own
spiritual journeys. But I had told them that when we got there I
would like to say a prayer. They were relaxed. When we did get there
it was heaving. People everywhere. It was going to be impossible to
get to an entrance. No wonder a priest could not meet us. So squeezed
by a fence virtually opposite the front entrance I announced we had
arrived and said a prayer of thanks, and asked for God’s blessing
on our families.
The
pilgrimage was over.
The
next couple of hours were intense – getting our camping kit packed
up and posted to the UK, finding the accommodation I had booked for
the family,
taking our bikes apart and getting them into their bags for the
flight home. And then suddenly Donald was in a taxi heading for the
train station to travel to Valencia where his family were coming.
Yes,
the original idea was mine; but in a hundred small details, Donald
had made it happen. He had chivvied me to do
proper practice rides each year before we set off,
booked the ferries, the trains with bike spaces, the camp-sites,
arranged for us to stay with Paul in Toulouse – and planned and
navigated the whole route, from Guildford to Barcelona. A mammoth
task. Beyond all these logistics he was an excellent cycling
companion and spirited
conversationalist.
So much to be grateful for.
Epilogue
What
is a good life?
For
many of us it is a life with a family.
My
wife, Mojdeh, and Yasna, my daughter, flew out from England to be
with me at the end of my pilgrimage, Bahram had come from Madrid. And
so on Saturday we experienced the wonder of the Sagrada Famila as a
family. For me it was very emotional. No words can convey how
precious family is, or properly describe those times when its beauty
is framed for our hearts. And those two hours in the Sagrada Familia,
in fact the whole week-end with my family in Barcelona, was such a
time.
I
had always hoped that I would be able to cycle those 950 miles, I had
always hoped that I would enjoy the Sagrada Familia, and I had always
hoped that my family would be with me. But I never knew how wonderful
it was actually going to be.
Yasna
and I spent nearly an hour inching round the outside of the
cathedral before our entrance time. The depiction of the Passion on
the West side is stark and intense. There is so much pain there. The
sleeping disciples in Gethsemane; the traitor’s kiss, Pilate’s
cowardice, and in the centre Christ tied to a post for the whipping.
Above this, Christ is on the cross – with his mother, family, at
its foot. Here is the atonement. God’s love in Christ for every
sinner. But above all this pain, there is another cross. It’s
empty. And sitting on a beam, almost casually, is the ascended
Christ. And behind the empty cross, a descending dove: The Holy
Spirit. At the end the
story,
all is well.
It
is not that we left the Holy Spirit to arrive at Holy Family. The
Holy Spirit was with us all the way. I remember the storm on our
first leg, the black sky, but the white dove flying along side us,
the wind on this ride. And here at our destination, behind the cross,
the Holy Spirit. The Holy Spirit in Guildford, the Holy Spirit in
Barcelona.
Physically
this was a journey from the cathedral of the Holy Spirit to the
cathedral of the Holy Family. Poetically that underlines that being
filled with the Holy Spirit must result in family, good
relationships. But spiritually there is no such journey. The Holy
Spirit and the Holy Family are always together.